上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

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  • 短链 http://vans.im/wjd

诸位好,我是来自北京的 SCR(缩写自 “Screamer”),对 Vans 的热爱持续了将近 10 年了。而我本人从 13 岁开始至今,从事手工缝纫(改衣 / 制衣)已有 20 年。虽然在手工缝纫方面我较常人有着更多的经验,但是也从未尝试过 DIY 改鞋,终于在去年年末鼓起勇气,第一次进行尝试。

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

我选择一双 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault 的联名作为改制的基础鞋款,Taka Hayashi 每次联名都会对 Vans 原本的鞋款做出很多忠于自我的修改,我也非常喜欢 Taka Hayashi 的鞋款风格,因此这双 2015 年双方联名推出的 Sk8-Hi Engineer LX 便是不二之选。

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX 2015 联名系列

拿到这双鞋款我最想做的便是在它基于 Sk8-Hi 的鞋身加入拉链,这样不仅更加方便穿脱,也能更有风格。

Vans 本身推出过不少的拉链 Zip 鞋款,大多数鞋款都在后跟加入拉链,而比较有名的 Mastermind JAPAN 将拉链放在内测,Old Skool Zip 则是放在侧边条和鞋带片之间。
上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

参考 Vans 以往的设计之后,我决定挑战两者结合——在这双 Sk8-Hi Engineer LX 鞋款上沿着侧边条纹和鞋带眼片之间的曲折空隙加入拉链设计。

先便是将脚踝处 Sk8-Hi 的三圈海绵小心剪开,谨慎处理原本横向的车线,以免损坏鞋款。完全裁剪到位之后,再内外用缝线锁边加固。

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

 

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

准备的 YKK 拉链,以及掩襟用的皮革

按照裁剪开的空隙尺寸准备好拉链,并且沿着曲线准备好皮革对拉链进行掩襟,这样拉链便不会直接接触脚部,带来不适感。

 

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

小心翼翼的将拉链缝入裁剪出来的空隙之中

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

至此,加入拉链这一步骤便已完成

作为自己打造的第一双鞋款,自然少不了以 SCR-STD(Screaming Studio)手工刺绣的鞋舌标来表明出处。

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

首先准备好定型的纸板,通过纸板将针线刺绣在鞋舌皮革上,再缝入原本鞋舌即可。

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

最后我还在后跟加入金属乐文化中常见的铆钉作为细节。此外为了更好固定绑带的金属拉环,也在上方加入固定条,也算弥补 Taka Hayashi 最初设计这一鞋款时的不足吧。

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

最后带来一组完成版的硬照,希望大家能够喜欢!

我也将在之后带来我改制的第二双鞋款

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

上手玩 | 手工改制,重新诠释 Taka Hayashi x Vans Vault Sk8-Hi Engineer LX by SCR-STD

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